Ladakh · India
Ladakh
Five days above three thousand metres
Published 13 Sept 2026 · Travelled 7–11 Sept 2026
- 15 moments
- 5 days
- 401 km
- Autumn
- India
- 300mm · f/18 · ISO 100
- 34.4194° N, 77.6543° E
- Khardung La descent
- 14:50
- 12°C, thin sun
The road down from Khardung La, compressed to a ribbon by the long lens. Everything up here is the same three colours - rust, dust, tarmac - until you notice the trucks and realise the scale.
- 70-300mm · f/22 · ISO 125
- 34.5445° N, 77.5617° E
- 70-300mm · f/22 · ISO 125
- 34.5445° N, 77.5617° E
- Diskit Monastery
- 16:43
- 16°C, storm light
Thirty-two metres of gilded calm above the Shyok, with a storm assembling behind it. The monastery loudspeaker was playing a prayer to nobody in particular. We stayed until the light went metallic.
- 24-70mm · f/5 · ISO 125
- 34.5808° N, 77.4855° E
- Hunder dunes
- 18:05
- 14°C, alpenglow
Double-humped Bactrians walking the dunes in the last light - descendants of the Silk Road caravans that used to pass this exact valley. The alpenglow lasted eleven minutes and they walked through all of it.
- iPhone 17 Pro
- 34.6850° N, 77.2698° E
- Shyok valley, road to Turtuk
- 09:55
- 15°C, clear
Morning on the road west, where the valley narrows and goes suddenly green. Shot on the phone out of the window because stopping felt like breaking something.
- 24-70mm · f/10 · ISO 125
- 34.8447° N, 76.8247° E
- 24-70mm · f/10 · ISO 125
- 34.8447° N, 76.8247° E
- Turtuk
- 12:33 → 12:35
- 21°C, warm sun
The last village before the Line of Control, and the greenest place in Ladakh - a Balti oasis of barley terraces and glacier water moving fast under wooden bridges. At 2,850 metres it felt almost tropical after the passes.
- iPhone 17 Pro
- 34.8472° N, 76.8237° E
- iPhone 17 Pro
- 34.8472° N, 76.8237° E
- Turtuk old village
- 15:13
- 22°C, soft light
Turtuk's lanes are stone and willow and five hundred years old. A man waved us through a carved doorway into what turned out to be his family's house museum - salt-tea ladles, apricot presses, a sword.
- 70-300mm · f/6.3 · ISO 100
- 34.6000° N, 77.4000° E
- Shyok valley
- 18:19
- 13°C, dusk
Back east with the long lens out the whole way. One cloud caught the last of it and held over a single tree, and I shot it wide because there was nothing to add.
- 70-300mm · f/5.6 · ISO 100
- 34.6050° N, 77.4100° E
- Shyok valley
- 18:30
- 12°C, dusk
The Shyok does its best work at the very end of the day, when the valley goes to cutouts and one band of orange holds the line between the ridges.
The plate · Nubra valley · 18:50 · 12°C, dusk
The eleven of us
Somebody's tripod, somebody's timer, everybody's dust. This is the whole convoy at the Nubra gate on day two, already sunburnt, already arguing about music for the drive back.
- 24-70mm · f/8 · ISO 100
- 33.9000° N, 78.4600° E
- Pangong Tso
- 17:58
- 8°C, wind
You come over the last rise and the blue is wrong - too saturated, too big, parked at 4,200 metres like it has nowhere else to be. The wind owns the shore. Everyone goes quiet for a minute; then everyone takes the same photograph.
- 24-70mm · f/8 · ISO 100
- 33.9050° N, 78.4700° E
- Pangong Tso
- 18:17
- 7°C, wind
Somebody had to stand in it for scale, and the wind made the decision easy - you leaned into it or you sat down.
- Triptych
- Spangmik
- 07:34
- -2°C, still, cold
- 24-70mm · f/7.1 · ISO 100
- 33.8900° N, 78.4300° E
- 24-70mm · f/7.1 · ISO 100
- 33.8900° N, 78.4300° E
- 24-70mm · f/7.1 · ISO 100
- 33.8900° N, 78.4300° E
Minus something before the sun cleared the ridge. The lake was flat for once and gave everything back double - the snow line, the one person up early enough to walk in it.
- 24-70mm · f/7.1 · ISO 100
- 33.2010° N, 78.6043° E
- 24-70mm · f/7.1 · ISO 100
- 33.2010° N, 78.6043° E
- Nyoma, Indus valley
- 14:59
- 11°C, high cloud
South along the Indus through Nyoma, where the plateau opens out and three white massifs keep pace with the car for an hour. 4,177 metres and nothing vertical for the eye to hold onto except them.
- 24-70mm · f/6.3 · ISO 100
- 32.9800° N, 78.2700° E
- 24-70mm · f/6.3 · ISO 100
- 32.9800° N, 78.2700° E
- Tso Moriri
- 15:57
- 7°C, clear
Higher and emptier than Pangong, and somehow bluer. Cairns on the overlook, mani stones and prayer flags at the shore, red tents pitched where the village stops. This was the point of the whole trip and it knew it.
- Korzok
- 08:56
- 1°C, cold, bright
- Last frame
Last morning, 4,554 metres, a homestay room the temperature of the lake. I put the widest lens on and photographed the only warm thing in it: the light coming in. Then the long drive back to thicker air.
- 12-20mm · f/7.1 · ISO 100
- 32.9684° N, 78.2646° E
The route
15 stops
Journey completed
Five days, fifteen stories
- Highest sleep
- 4,554 m
- Passes
- 3
- Lakes
- 2
- Favourite moment
- Pangong flat as a mirror before breakfast.
- Best food
- Apricots straight off a Turtuk tree.