Journey 01 · Morocco
Blue, Then Brown
Chefchaouen and the road south
Published 11 Apr 2025 · Travelled 8–21 Mar 2025
- 9 moments
- 14 days
- 536 km
- Spring
- Morocco
- 35mm · f/8 · 1/500
- 35.1688° N, 5.2636° W
- Chefchaouen, from the Ain Tissemlal road
- 16:40
- 17°C, clear, hazy
The bus from Tangier drops you at the bottom of the hill and the whole town is stacked above you, which means your first look at it is the one everybody photographs and you cannot help photographing it too. I told myself I would wait for better light. Then I put the bag down on the wall and shot it anyway, because a 35mm is exactly the wrong lens for this and I wanted the failure on the card.
- 35mm · f/2.8 · 1/250
- 35.1704° N, 5.2647° W
- The medina, above Plaza Uta el-Hammam
- 15:10
- 19°C, warm, still
By the second afternoon I had stopped trying to work out where I was. The medina is small enough that being lost in it lasts about eight minutes, and the blue is not one blue — it goes green where the sun hits it and almost purple in the shade, and no white balance I own is honest about that. This staircase had rugs out on both sides and a man asleep behind me on a step.
the blue is lime and pigment, and they redo it every year
- 35mm · f/2 · 1/320
- 35.1712° N, 5.2660° W
- 35mm · f/2 · 1/320
- 35.1712° N, 5.2660° W
- Rue Bin Souaki
- 08:05
- 12°C, cool, shadowed
There are more cats than people awake before nine, and they sit exactly where you would put a subject if you were arranging one. The first was asleep against a doorstep and did not move when I crouched a metre away. The second was on a windowsill above a turquoise door and looked directly at the lens for about a second and a half, which is all I needed.
Overheard · Plaza Uta el-Hammam · 18:30
"You want a photograph of the blue?" — "I have a lot already." — "Everybody has a lot already. Nobody has one at six in the morning." He was right and he knew it, and he did not want anything for the information, which made it worse.
- 35mm · f/5.6 · 1/125
- 35.1723° N, 5.2582° W
- The Spanish Mosque ridge
- 06:55
- 9°C, haze, no wind
So I went at six. Twenty minutes up the path towards the ruined mosque on the far side of the valley, in the dark, past two other people with tripods who had clearly been told the same thing by the same man. The haze came off the Rif and sat in the streets, and for about eight minutes the whole town was one temperature of light.
- 35mm · f/5.6 · 1/1000
- 31.2947° N, 7.3736° W
- Tizi n'Tichka
- 11:25
- 14°C, bright, thin cloud
Chefchaouen to Marrakech, then a shared car up over the Tizi n'Tichka the next morning. The road stops being green somewhere after Aït Ourir and then it is all switchbacks and pink rock and lorries that overtake into the bend. I shot this through the windscreen from the middle seat, which is why the bottom third of it is dashboard.
car sick for the last hour and refusing to admit it
- 35mm · f/4 · 1/400
- 31.1358° N, 7.9192° W
- 35mm · f/4 · 1/400
- 31.1358° N, 7.9192° W
- Imlil, High Atlas
- 08:40
- 2°C, cold, clear
The trailhead at Imlil is a car park, a stack of gas bottles and about nine mules standing very still in old snow. Mine carried a bag that weighed less than the camera bag I insisted on carrying myself, which Brahim thought was funny for two days. We had tea first, on a tray on a low wall, with the valley doing that thing where the far side is already in shade.
- 35mm · f/8 · 1/640
- 31.1180° N, 7.9160° W
- Above Aroumd, Imlil valley
- 10:50
- 6°C, clear
Above Aroumd the path climbs the left bank and you can see the whole system at once — the walnut terraces, the flat-roofed houses the exact colour of the hillside, and the wall of the Toubkal massif closing the end of it. I kept trying to make a picture that had a person in it for scale, and everyone I met was moving too fast.
- Below the Toubkal refuge
- 13:15
- -4°C, cold, hard light
- Last frame
I did not go up Toubkal. I got to the shoulder below the refuge, sat on a rock for forty minutes and watched a line of people the size of commas moving across the snowfield above me, and decided that was the picture. Walking back down through the village in the last light, everything below the snow was the colour of wet cardboard and I liked it more than the mountain.
- 35mm · f/11 · 1/1250
- 31.0833° N, 7.9167° W
The route
9 stops
Journey completed
Fourteen days, nine stories
- Distance walked
- 68 km
- Frames exposed
- 2140
- Cards filled
- 3
- Frames kept
- 61
- Glasses of tea refused
- 0
- Favourite moment
- The mule waiting at the trailhead in the snow while nobody explained anything to it
- Best food
- Bread pulled off the top of an oven on the Ras el Maa side of Chefchaouen, eaten before I got back down the hill