Journey 01 · Sri Lanka
Above the Tea Line
Nuwara Eliya, Horton Plains, and the slow train
Published 25 Apr 2025 · Travelled 15–25 Mar 2025
- 8 moments
- 11 days
- 70 km
- Spring
- Sri Lanka
- 70mm · f/4 · 1/500 · ISO 400
- 6.9200° N, 80.6200° E
- The hill line, above Hatton
- 11:40
- 19°C, cloud coming and going
The hill line climbs from Kandy in about four hours and everybody who has done it before goes and stands in the open doorway with a hand on the rail. I did that for most of it with a 200mm hanging off my shoulder, which was not a good idea and produced nothing usable except this one, taken with my elbow braced against the door frame while we went round the outside of a tea slope.
- 135mm · f/2.8 · 1/640 · ISO 800
- 6.9861° N, 80.7361° E
- Labookellie estate, above Nuwara Eliya
- 08:25
- 15°C, mist burning off
The pluckers start at half past six and are paid by the kilo, and the whole hillside above Labookellie is worked by hand because a machine cannot tell a bud from a stem. I asked before I photographed and she said yes and then completely ignored me, which is the correct response and the only reason the frame works.
- 70mm · f/5.6 · 1/250 · ISO 640
- 6.9583° N, 80.7644° E
- Weighing shed, Nuwara Eliya estates
- 13:05
Weighing happens twice a day at a shed on the estate road and the leaf comes in in nylon net sacks that are exactly the shape of whatever has been leaning against them. Nobody was around. I like this frame more than most of my wildlife from that week and I am aware of what that says.
- 200mm · f/2.8 · 1/200 · ISO 1600
- 6.9611° N, 80.7972° E
- Pedro estate, above Nuwara Eliya
- 16:40
- 12°C, fog, no wind
Every afternoon the cloud came up the valley and by half four the estate had about forty metres of visibility and the eucalyptus in the middle of the tea turned into outlines. There is nothing to photograph in it, which is why I went out in it. Wide open at 200mm, everything three trees back is gone.
the fog is why the tea is any good, apparently
- 200mm · f/4 · 1/800 · ISO 1600
- 6.8022° N, 80.8067° E
- 200mm · f/4 · 1/800 · ISO 1600
- 6.8022° N, 80.8067° E
- Horton Plains National Park
- 06:35
- 4°C, frost, then sun
The gate opens at six and the first hour is the only hour. Above two thousand metres the forest gives up and it becomes tussock grassland that goes gold in low light, and there is frost on it in March. The stag came out onto the track about two hundred metres ahead and stood side-on. I got from 200 down to about 90 by walking, one step at a time, and then he decided he had been generous enough.
- 200mm · f/2.8 · 1/500 · ISO 3200
- 6.9250° N, 80.8167° E
- Above Hakgala
- 09:50
- 18°C, bright, dappled
Langurs in the hill forest above Hakgala have enormous white side-whiskers and a face like a disappointed schoolmaster, and they eat sitting down with both hands. This one was working through something in the canopy and glanced at me twice in eleven minutes. Neither glance was concerned. Shot at 200 wide open through a gap and it is still not sharp where I wanted it.
Overheard · Horton Plains entrance · 06:05
"Are there leopards here?" — "Yes." — "Will we see one?" — "No." He said it with no particular feeling, the way you would say a bus does not run on Sunday. We did not see one. I have decided this was honest rather than discouraging.
- World's End and the estate road
- 07:20
- 8°C, clear, briefly
- Last frame
World's End is a cliff where the plateau simply stops and there is nothing for eight hundred metres, and it is clear for about ninety minutes a day before the cloud fills it. I got twenty of those minutes. On the way back down the estate road a tuk-tuk came up through the tea with its engine complaining and I turned around and took the last frame of the trip out of the back of another one.
- 70mm · f/8 · 1/500 · ISO 400
- 6.7889° N, 80.7975° E
The route
8 stops
Journey completed
Eleven days, eight stories
- Distance walked
- 58 km
- Frames exposed
- 4300
- Mornings above the cloud
- 3
- Sambar seen
- 22
- Sambar photographed properly
- 2
- Favourite moment
- The stag on the track at Horton Plains that let me get to 90mm before it decided
- Best food
- Egg hopper and pol sambol at a stall by Nanu Oya station at 06:10, standing up, in the cold