Journey 02 · Kenya
Eleven Days of Dust
The Mara in crossing season
Published 19 Sept 2025 · Travelled 18–28 Aug 2025
- 9 moments
- 11 days
- 91 km
- Summer
- Kenya
- 70mm · f/2.8 · 1/60 · ISO 6400
- 1.4000° S, 35.0000° E
- The Mara Triangle, before sunrise
- 05:50
- 14°C, cold, clear
Out of camp at half past five in the dark, and the next fourteen hours are spent in a metal box with the roof up and a beanbag on the sill. Joseph drove standing half out of his seat when he was looking for something. I want to be honest that this is most of what a wildlife trip is — sitting down, being driven, and the light coming up on the inside of a windscreen.
- 135mm · f/5.6 · 1/1000 · ISO 800
- 1.5236° S, 35.0517° E
- Above the Mara River
- 08:15
- 19°C, clear, warming
By eight in the morning there were perhaps six thousand animals packed onto the shoulder above the water and not one of them moving. This is the part nobody films. They stand, they turn around, they go back up, they come down again. Joseph switched the engine off and said we should be comfortable, and we were there for four hours and forty minutes.
- 200mm · f/5.6 · 1/2000 · ISO 800
- 1.5240° S, 35.0530° E
- The crossing point
- 12:55
- 27°C, hot, still
One animal goes and the decision is made for all of them. The noise is the thing — hooves and grunting and water, and under it a sort of low roar from the ones still coming down the bank. I shot at 1/2000 and most of it is dust. This one is the only frame where you can see individual animals rather than a brown weather system.
four hours forty of nothing, eleven minutes of that
- 200mm · f/2.8 · 1/1600 · ISO 1250
- 1.4500° S, 35.1500° E
- 200mm · f/2.8 · 1/1600 · ISO 1250
- 1.4500° S, 35.1500° E
- Rhino Ridge
- 07:10
- 16°C, clear, low sun
He came out of the grass about thirty metres off the track and walked past the vehicle at a diagonal without once acknowledging that it existed. A 200mm at that distance is far too long and I filled the frame with his head, which is the mistake everybody makes. Two hundred metres on there were four cubs under a bush and one of them stood up to see what all this was.
Overheard · Above the Mara River · 11:40
"They will go today?" — "They will go when the front one is more frightened of the ones behind than of the river." — "How long does that take?" — "It has taken three days before." He said this while eating an orange and not looking at the river at all.
- 100mm · f/4 · 1/1000 · ISO 1600
- 1.5100° S, 35.2000° E
- Near Topi Plains
- 06:40
- 15°C, clear, cold early
Cheetah brothers hold territory together and this group had been together for years, and they came up onto a termite mound at about half past six and sat in a row like a school photograph. I had maybe ninety seconds of usable light and I spent thirty of them changing to a wider focal length because 200mm could not hold all five.
- 85mm · f/4 · 1/500 · ISO 400
- 1.3800° S, 35.1200° E
- A Maasai homestead near the reserve boundary
- 16:20
- 26°C, hot, hazy
The manyatta near the reserve boundary is built of dung and stick and the doorways are low and offset so that no wind and no animal comes straight in. He stood in his own doorway because I asked and then made a joke I did not understand and everybody else did. This is not a wildlife photograph and it is one of three frames from the trip I have printed.
- 70mm · f/8 · 1/1000 · ISO 640
- 1.4600° S, 35.1000° E
- Central Mara plains
- 06:55
- 16°C, clear, no wind
Balloons go up from three or four camps and they are over you before you hear the burners, which is the odd part — a very large object arriving silently. The zebras have obviously seen it every morning of their lives and did not lift a head. I took this because I had been photographing animals for six days and had almost no frames with the sky in them.
- On the way to the airstrip
- 06:20
- 15°C, clear
- Last frame
She was lying in grass the colour of her own coat and lifted her head for about a second and a half when a hyena called somewhere behind us. Then we drove to the airstrip and the sun went behind the only tree between us and the ridge, which is the most obvious photograph in Africa and I took it anyway, because it was the last morning.
- 200mm · f/2.8 · 1/1250 · ISO 2000
- 1.4300° S, 35.0600° E
The route
9 stops
Journey completed
Eleven days, nine stories
- Distance walked
- 6 km
- Frames exposed
- 11400
- Hours in the vehicle
- 94
- Crossings watched
- 2
- Crossings that did not happen after four hours of waiting
- 5
- Favourite moment
- The four seconds before the first wildebeest went in, when the whole bank went quiet
- Best food
- Boiled eggs and a flask of tea on the bonnet at half past six, which is not food so much as a ritual